SILK IKAT FABRIC

Uzbek artisans still rely on local families for the production of the cocoons from which silk is obtained. The season starts in April, and each household is given twenty grams of silkworm eggs in a container the size of a matchbox. The silkworms that hatch from these eggs consume an enormous amount of mulberry leaves over approximately six weeks and spin cocoons weighing up to eighty kilograms.

After the cocoons are sorted according to their quality, the silk fibers are extracted. During the preparation for dyeing, the threads are washed with soap made from sodium ash and cottonseed oil to remove the sericin (the glue) from the cocoon.

Process

Silk ikat is a complex weaving method that uses a resist dyeing process (similar to batik dyeing) on the warp threads before weaving to create intricate designs in the finished product.

Preparing the Weave

A warping reel is used to measure the warp threads, which are about 150 meters long when natural dyes are used. The preparation of the warp, tying of the patterns, and dyeing are done by men. The rasmchi is the designer, the nishonji makes the marks, the abrbandchi ties the threads, and the ranguborchi dips the threads into hot dye baths over a wood-burning fire.

To start the process, small groups of silk threads are repeatedly tied in a complex design with a water-resistant material to prevent the dye bath from penetrating. Yellow, usually the lightest color, is dyed first. The parts that will remain yellow are then tightly bound, and the threads are dyed in the next color. This process is repeated for each color.

Weaving

Once the dyeing is complete, the resist materials are removed to reveal the pattern, the loom is warped, and the weaving, mostly done by women, begins. The entire process, from cocoon to finished product, requires 37 steps.

SILK VELVET IKAT FABRIC

Silk ikat velvet, a pile weave, is known as baghmal by Uzbeks and Tajiks. The binding and dyeing process is the same as for simple ikat. For ikat velvet, however, there are two warp systems, one for the ground cloth and one for the velvet, which is considerably longer. In order to form the pile, the ikat velvet warps are raised to form loops over a grooved wire. A razor is drawn through the groove, leaving a perfectly even edge on the pile.

Design motifs include amulets or other forms of jewelry, rams' horns, plants, pomegranates, trees, tulips, scorpions, and birds, which are commonly abstracted for use in Uzbek ikat patterns.

SUZANI

Suzani embroidery has its roots in the ancient times of Central Asia. This art form has been a tradition for centuries, evolving and diversifying with each generation. The word "Suzani" derives from the Persian word "suzan," meaning "needlework." This refers to the hand-stitched embroidery done with needles.

Typically, Suzani is embroidered on cotton or silk fabric. Silk fabrics give suzanis a brighter and more luxurious appearance. The threads used are also made of cotton or silk and are chosen in bright, vivid colors. These colors, derived from natural dyes, are resistant to fading over time.

The primary embroidery techniques used in suzanis include "basma" (satin stitch), "ilmek" (cross-stitch), "kaneviçe" (tent stitch), and "zencirek" (chain stitch). Each technique is employed to create different patterns and motifs. Common motifs include flowers, leaves, fruits, birds, and geometric patterns. Each motif has its unique meaning, often symbolizing themes such as fertility, abundance, health, and protection.

Traditionally, suzanis are an important part of a young girl’s dowry. These embroideries, created as brides prepare for marriage, also showcase their skills and patience. Suzanis are used decoratively as wall hangings, tablecloths, pillow covers, and curtains. Their bright colors and intricate workmanship add vibrancy and aesthetic appeal to interiors.